Beware!!!

When working on tanks outside, whether it be repairing them or water testing them BEWARE of neighbours spraying with Baygon!!!

AARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Aquarium Photography

After much trial and tribulation with taking hundreds of fishy photos to get maybe six good ones, I decided to do some online research into aquarium photography. I learnt alot.

* The mantra that was repeated everywhere was patience, patience, patience.

* Preparation of the tank is vital. Before hand make sure the tank is cleared of all debris (floating leaves, uneaten food etc), the water is clear and the front glass been given a good clean. A background or piece of cardboard at the back of the tank will eliminate cords and tubing showing making for a nicer photo.

* Wear solid, dark clothing to eliminate you being seen in the glass reflection.

* Just prior to taking the photos, turn off the pumps and filters to eliminate water movement and improve clarity.

* Turn off the flash.

* In the menu settings under white balance, take it off auto and select fluorescent.

* Take the camera out of auto focus mode, select the macro mode feature (usually depicted as a flower)

* Take the ISO speed off auto and choose 800 or 1000. When you take pictures on a higher ISO setting, the camera has to be extremely still, use either a tripod, table or other flat surface. Leaning the camera against the front glass will also stabilise it.

* Take notes! Take lots of photos with different setting combinations to work out which ones work best for you, note which photos are which combinations so when checking your photos you can see which parameters you had better results with.

* Expect to take lots and lots of photos.

* Use very strong aquarium lights or add lighting from the top of the tank when not using a flash. The more lighting the easier your camera will focus and take clearer pictures.

* Focus on a specific spot in the aquarium and wait for the fish to come to it. Resort to adding small amonts of food to the very front of the tank to encourage the fish away from the back of the tank.

* Use a special "photo tank" so you can better control tank conditions such as poor lighting and to narrow down the area the fish can swim/hide in, saving you time. A friend also suggested to me if you have a spare piece of glass, set that a few inches from the front so your fish can be easily seen.

* Check out digital camera sites that focus on aquarium photography. I found these two sites really useful -

http://rkdzines.com/cichlidcellar/Photo%20Tips.htm

http://www.discushatchery.com/phototips1.html

In conclusion, know your equipment, experiment with various lighting and camera settings, and have lots and lots of patience.

Testing a Tank for Leaks

First up you need someplace that is level, flat, not in anyone's way and that it won't be a problem if/when the tank leaks. Outside on a patio, path or driveway works well. Just make sure that the spot you pick has no harmful pesticides, detergents or cleaners of any kind.

NEVER just put a tank down somewhere and fill it. Always remember to sit the tank on its foam sheet to avoid tank stress which will result in glass cracking. (Yep been there, done that...)

Step 1: For the purpose of water testing a tank I set the foam up on a flat piece of concrete, lie an old white towel over it, then sit the tank on top, making sure that the tank is flush with the foam sheet underneath.

Step 2: Fill the tank till quarter full. Then dry off the glass on the outside.

*The idea here is to fill the tank in stages to reduce mess and possible structural damage*

At this stage I also add a healthy amount of food colouring to the water in the tank. (Blue works the best) That way when the tank starts leaking I can 1) see exactly where, from the colour of the towel or 2) can see water beads running down the joins.

This is the time I also grab my black texta marker and draw a line where the current water level is, and write the day and time.

Let the tank sit for 24 hours at a quarter full, checking on it occasionally.

*Remember some leaks are slow so have patience*

**If you do happen to find any leaks at any stage, mark the spot with the black texta marker and stop the testing process**

Step 3: If the tank is still not leaking add water till the tank is half full. Dry off the glass and mark in the new water line with the texta. Continue checking on the tank over the next 24 hours.

Step 4: If the tank is still not leaking add water till the tank is three quarters full, drying off the glass and marking in the new water line. Continue checking on the tank over the next 24 hours.

Step 5: If the tank is STILL not leaking fill the tank to full. Dry off the glass, add the new water line in texta and let sit for a couple of days.

__________________________

By doing the tank testing this way, we have dual visual confirmation of a tank leak, by watching the water line over time and colouration of the white towel underneath AND we didn't unduly stress the tank or waste water ;)

If the tank didn't leak after all of this - congratulations!

If it did leak you have to decide whether to repair it or replace it.

Here is a pic of a tank I recently tested - I had run out of blue food colouring so used green instead - unfortunately the colour barely showed up on the towel.

Be Prepared for Tank Emergencies

At some point in the aquarium hobby we all end up with a tank that leaks or cracks. It can be a very messy, stressful experience with water everywhere, tank decorations and plants being ripped out while trying to rescue your fish, and don't forget about the powerboard or electricity source being compromised.

The best advice I can offer is to be prepared.

Years ago I went through the experience of a 3 foot tank cracking in the middle of the night and found myself woefully not equipped to deal with it quickly and efficiently. That night I learnt I needed to have an emergency plan in case it ever happened again. (which of course it has lol)

The biggest factor is to know where everything is and have it handy. Empty buckets left stacked in the same place helps, as does having your aquarium nets hanging close by. Investing in one or two 60 litre plastic garbage bins can be a life saver as can having lots of buckets.

When the tank is discovered leaking, grab the plastic garbage bin, put as much water as you can from the leaking tank and then add your fish. The water in the bin can be topped up with aged tap water later if need be, but for now at least your fish are safe and in their 'normal' tank water. (less stress for them) Plants go in one bucket, rocks/driftwood/decorations go in another, pumps/filters/heater in another and then gravel from the tank goes into the last couple.

When things have calmed down you can always go back to the fish in the bin to add airstones and a heater if necessary. Just remember to watch the temperature of the water.

Everything is orderly, safe from contaminates and instead of panicking you implemented a plan of action. Plus the bonus is your fish have a temporary "tank" till the broken one is fixed or replaced ;)

Driftwood Do's and Don'ts

I came across a well written article on Pleco Planet regarding driftwood and thought I would share it here -

http://www.plecoplanet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=676

Thank you to the author of it, N2Biomes.

Fish Compatibility Chart

Keeping Aquariums Cool in Hot Weather

Tips for keeping aquariums cooler in hot weather

* The hotter the water temperature, the less oxygen in it. Therefore turn the pump up to maximum or add another air stone, you can also direct filter outlets or spray arms to the water surface to create agitation.

* Switch off and unplug aquarium heaters. Heaters have a thermostate so they shouldn't even be switching on in your tank. Just remember to plug them in again when the heatwave is over.

* Turn off tank lighting. The lights obviously generate some heat - and in heat waves reducing every little bit helps.

* Open the tank lids. Place a mesh screen over any openings so the fish can't jump out (and animals don't get in).

* Aim a fan over the water surface of the aquarium. Make sure the fan is well stabilised, so no nasty accidents occur.

* Do a partial water change. Add the new water in gradually to acclimatise the fish.

* Floating a frozen bottle of spring water in your tank can also help - just remember to keep an eye on the temperature, if it drops too quickly it will stress the fish further.

Different Types of Aquariums

There are different types of aquarium set ups for the aquarist to try;

* The community aquarium

* The species only aquarium

* The biotope aquarium, and

* The aquascape aquarium

The community aquarium is made up of different species of fish and plants that can companionably co-exist together (but usually wouldn't be found together in the wild). Focus is on having a balance of fish between the top, middle and bottom regions of the tank. Additionally colour is a main feature. Often there is also the oddball favourite fish, whether it be cheeky loaches, a territorial catfish or a nocturnal black ghost knife fish who takes over the tank when the lights go out.

A species only aquarium is self explanatory. The tank is devoted to one species of fish, often because they are the aquarists favourite fish type or for breeding/raising purposes.

The biotope aquarium is about duplicating a particular geographical area or lake/river system, small scale, using only the fish, plants and type of substrate found there. Biotope aquariums are all about research, planning and collecting items needed. Aquarists interested in setting up a biotope aquarium do so for the challenge.

The aquascape aquarium is landscaping underwater. The focus is on use of plants, rocks and driftwood to set an underwater scene. Ornaments are also sometimes used. The fish added are plant friendly types - those who do not punch holes in leaves, uproot plants etc.

All these types of aquariums can show off the aquarists artistic side and devotion to their hobby. They also provide the aquarist with a challenge and helps alleviate burnout and boredom.